Kotaku
By: Maggie Greene
Embroidery is a fine and ancient art, and counted cross-stitch is one of the easiest and most user-friendly varieties. Unlike other art forms that require some sort of innate or trained talent with the medium, just about anyone can put together cross-stitch projects that are pleasant to look at.
Unfortunately, unless you're really into Winnie the Pooh, elaborate alphabets, Precious Moments, or various types of wild animals looking pensive or free-spirited, the embroidery aisle at your local craft store can be lacking in the 'Why yes, I do want to spend tens of hours of my life on that' kits. But with a little extra work and planning, it's easy to put together your own project; until the major publishers start retailing Final Fantasy and Bioshock stitching kits, the best way for game fans to mix two things that usually don't go together - the kitsch of cross-stitch and the oh-so-modern medium of video games - is to plan and chart your own.
Picking Your Image
The first step in the whole process is deciding exactly what you're going to stitch. A few things to keep in mind: if you're expecting a perfect replica of something, learn how to draw or paint and move on to art of a different kind. Cross-stitch doesn't always turn out perfect replicas, and you're going to lose some (frequently a lot) of detail when you convert your image to chart form. Judicious use of three-quarter stitches can help smooth rough edges and backstitching can add extra dimension to a piece, but rare is the image that was just made to be embroidered. 'Flat' images that don't rely on a ton of shading are frequently going to transfer better into fabric and thread than that screen cap from a favorite game.
One form of video game art that transfers extremely well into cross-stitch is the classic sprite-type image. If this is your first time cross-stitching, some iconic pixilated image may be just the ticket (they're also easy to chart by hand).
I'm still learning and experimenting on selecting and manipulating images. Don't be afraid to go out on a limb - but make sure it'll be a project that you're not going to spend a ton of time on, only to be disappointed with the end result. While I've gotten some unexpected and not entirely pleasing results from my experiments, I'm generally pleased with the final product. I also think that anyone who is going to whine about a hand-embroidered project not being a perfect replica of the original doesn't deserve to be gifted with a piece of my hard work!
So you've got an image ... now what?
Now that you've picked out an image, you need to downsize and chart it. The most important thing to remember when downsizing your image is that when you chart a design, one pixel = one stitch. That means that for a 200 by 200 image, you will be doing (if the design takes up that whole space) 40,000 stitches. Keep this in mind when selecting an image, and remember that sometimes smaller is better. That lovely image you have that's 800 by 600? 480,000 stitches. That's a lot of sewing, and a pretty damn big piece. Which isn't to say it can't be done, but be realistic with your time, talents, and attention span. The bigger the chart, the more detail and the more subtlety that can be imparted - but the time required will grow exponentially.
I prefer to keep my images under 300 by 300; it makes for a manageable piece that isn't too large (so it's fairly portable, which makes for good stitching on the run), and usually big enough to create a decent chart. Depending on how big your original image is, you can downsize or upsize as you see fit.
Once you have your image downsized, it's time to chart it! Back in the day, charting was something done by hand. Thankfully for those of us who don't want to sit down with graph paper and colored pencils, there are a number of quick and easy ways to convert your image into a chart - the cheapest option is the free, web-based chart generator from Dark Lilac. It's not fancy and doesn't give you the many corrective options of the fancy software programs that professionals and very serious hobbyists use, but it also doesn't cost you anything. I haven't found a software program that has given me charts I'm pleased with, and if anyone has suggestions, I'm all ears. Until then, the Dark Lilac spits out (free) charts in a nice, manageable PDF form.
Now you've got some options, and the trial and error begins. Selecting the color to be transparent, for example, is usually pretty easy, but sometimes the background color will also be a big player in the actual body of your stitching. If you keep getting unsatisfactory results (i.e., large blocks of areas to go unstitched in the body of your project), select no color for transparency - this will require a little more vigilance while sewing, but having to zone out background stitching is better than winding up with a project that looks moth-eaten or half-finished.
I usually allow 40 colors for colorful projects. It's enough to give a wide variety and subtle variation, but not terribly overwhelming (remember that for some colors, you may only be doing a handful of stitches). You may not need that many, or you may need more - but the more colors you have, the better your image will appear in thread form (unless we're dealing with pixilated images already). I would advise against using blended threads (two colors per symbol) - I used blends in two projects and really feel that I would have been better served by just using one color per symbol. It's difficult to tell how blended threads are going to play out until you start stitching. It's also more work to deal with than using single thread colors.
I also set number of isolated stitches to be removed to 0, since I've found it to give more pleasant results overall. Hit submit and take a look at your chart. The preview image isn't perfect, but should give you a decent guide for what your project may look like. If it looks hideous, go back and rechart. Take a look at the chart again- you should be able to get a good idea of what detail made it and what didn't. If you're unhappy with the way it looks in chart form, go back and rechart. You should eventually wind up with a chart that you're happy with, and then ...
It's time to go shopping!
So you've got your chart in hand. There will be a list of symbols and numbers - the numbers tell you what color DMC cotton embroidery thread you'll need, and the symbols represent the thread while you're sewing. Above the thread list, you'll see approximate finished sizes for your project depending on the Aida cloth you decide to use.
The cost of entry to cross-stitch is really pretty low - even my more elaborate projects usually cost under $20 for my supplies. The more sewing you do, the cheaper it gets as you build up a thread library - but considering skeins of embroidery thread are sold for 3/$1 in most places, we're not talking outrageously expensive even if you're starting from scratch.
So what are the absolute necessities?
6-strand cotton embroidery floss - there are several companies that produce this floss, but DMC is most common and readily available (and also the thread type your Dark Lilac chart will be using - there are conversion charts between the various manufacturers, but why work harder than you have to?). There are also fancy embroidery threads available (metallic, sparkly, variegated), but you won't need most of those for your average project. They are also frequently a pain in the ass to work with (the metallics especially), so think hard before incorporating them into a piece.
Aida cloth is somewhat stiff, open weave fabric that has holes at regular intervals. The count of Aida tells you how many stitches per inch - 14 count Aida has 14 stitches per inch. I prefer the smaller weaves and higher numbers (18 and 22), but 14 count is probably the most common, and also can be a little easier to work with if you're just starting out. The top of your chart will list Aida counts and finished project sizes so you can figure out what size to purchase. Lower count equals bigger finished product. Aida comes in a wide variety of colors, with white and off-white being the most common. Selecting a colorful Aida can help your project - if your image is on a dark background, a black or navy Aida can cut down on your stitching. Picking a fabric that complements the color pallet of your piece can really enhance the results.
There are tons of types of needles - I use several different kinds of various lengths. Look for a package of embroidery needles; the kind with several different lengths will let you try out a few different types of needles to see what you like. Technically you don't need small, sharp nosed sewing scissors, but I'd really recommend a dedicated pair of scissors (so they stay sharp), and the needle nose really helps in cutting off thread closely and cutting out stitches if you make a mistake.
A nice thing to have if you're going to be doing multiple projects is some sort of thread organization system. Your thread collection will continue to grow as you start new projects, and sensible thread organization will make your life a lot easier. I have three kinds of organizers that make up my thread collection:
Thread cards (my least favorite), cardboard bobbins (these are quite cheap and will do in a pinch - and I strongly recommend getting something to organize your thread), the 'stitch bow' system (by far my favorite, if a bit gimmicky).
I prefer to sew with a hoop, which keeps your fabric tension even (this in turn helps keep your stitches even). These are cheap and come in a variety of forms - I prefer the plastic ones with a lip. There are new 'hoopless' Aida cloths that are stiffer than normal - I still prefer regular Aida and a hoop, since it's much more comfortable for me.
Finally, a roll of masking tape is a must - Aida fabric was made to ravel, and taping your edges nips that problem in the bud. Some fabrics are made with a pinked (jagged) edge to cut down on the raveling problem - I still tape.
So make your list and check it twice (or three times, or five if you're neurotic like me) - if this is your first sewing project, you won't have a thread collection, but I keep a running list of my thread stock that I add to and delete from as I buy new thread and use up skeins. Your local craft store should have everything you need, from fabric to scissors, but you may be limited in your options for Aida and inevitably, the store is always out of two or three thread colors I need. If you need a unique color of Aida or embroidery floss and you don't feel like running around town to track it down, I use online retailers like Herrschners (shipping usually takes a while, but you can get everything you need and more). If there's a store dedicated to embroidery near you, as opposed to the jack-of-all-trades craft stores, it's probably worth popping your head in if you're looking for more unusual items.
Now we're cooking ... er, embroidering
So you've purchased your fabric, your thread, and any miscellaneous items you need. You've organized your thread, have your needles and scissors at the ready - it's time to get sewing.
First thing's first - tape your edges. Simply lay down masking tape on one side and fold down over the edge of your fabric to the back, pressing to make sure it's adhered. Do this on each side, and you've ensured your fabric will be ravel-free.
Now fold your fabric once lengthwise and once widthwise and crease. This will help you find the center of your project - mark the center with a piece of thread that you can remove once you start sewing or a pencil mark on the back.
Find the center of your chart, and see what thread color that corresponds to. Now it's time to prepare your thread and get to stitching.
When I cut a section of thread from the whole skein, I prefer to keep it pretty long (about the length of my arm). I use the 'loop' method of securing thread, so I use one piece of thread doubled on itself instead of two separate pieces of thread. The longer the thread, the more likely it is to get knotted up while you work; short pieces of thread will require frequent changes and can get very frustrating while working on large blocks of color. To extract your thread from the rest of the skein, hold one thread at the end and slide the other five threads down to the bottom all at once. You'll wind up with a little nest of floss in your lap (it should stay tangle free, surprisingly enough) and a single strand that you need in your hand. If you're not going to use the loop method of securing your stitches, do this twice so you have two strands.
'Knot' is a bad word in cross-stitch, unless you're talking about knots that are used for decorative purposes. Never, ever use a knot to secure your thread. There are a few ways to go about securing your thread so it won't pull out - the most common is to leave a little 'tail' of thread that you will initially hold down with a finger while you stitch over it. My personal favorite is the loop method, which won't work when you need two threads of different colors or are working with an odd number of threads. But most cross stitch will be worked with two strands, and this method is perfect for keeping your stitches secured and the back of your project neat.
Double your single strand up, and thread the two ends through the eye of the needle. The bottom of your thread will be a loop. As you make your first stitch, make sure some of the loop stays on the back of your fabric, and thread the needle through the loop. As you continue to pull the thread through the fabric, your loop will close up and your thread will be securely held down.
Cross-stitching is an incredibly easy embroidery style, I promise. I completed my first project (a Christmas ornament) at the age of four and a half - while there are a variety of fancy cross stitches used in embroidery, the basic type used in counted cross stitch is really, really simple. You can work your stitches in a few different ways - one method is to do one complete cross-stitch at a time. Another common method - and the one I prefer - is to work a row of half stitches, then come back the other way to form your complete cross.
I find this method to be faster and I'm less prone to make errors. A few dos and don'ts as you get underway:
Don't hop and skip around too much. I work outwards from the starting point, making sure I'm not counting out too many empty stitches. It is very easy to miscalculate by one or two spots when you're staring at a blank piece of fabric - and it sucks to have to go back and rip out hundreds of stitches because of a tiny mistake you didn't catch early on. Ask me how I know this.
Work in manageable blocks when doing large areas of the same color. Counting out twenty, thirty, or forty stitches in a row makes it easy to mess up or run out of thread in the middle of a row - I work in blocks of 10.
Don't switch direction of your stitches. If you start out going left to right, coming back over right to left, don't switch it up in the middle of the project.
Keep thread tension even and don't pull too hard (this will cause your fabric to pucker). Using a hoop can help keep your stitches even by ensuring constant fabric tension. If you're new to sewing, you will figure this out as you go along - you want your fabric and thread tension to be 'just right,' not too strong and not too light.
Don't carry your thread too far - if you have to move to a new area to continue with your color, finish off your thread, cut, and move to the new area if it's further than an inch or so. This helps keep the back of your project neat, and carried threads won't show through to the front of your project.
Don't use knots to finish off a piece of thread - turn over your project and run your needle under the row of stitching, taking care not to pierce the fabric. I usually run under six stitches or so to make sure the thread is going to stay put. Cut the thread close to avoid tufts of tails that can get tangled up and impede your stitching.
While stitching, hold your project up and let the needle dangle from time to time - this helps prevent your thread from knotting up (if you do wind up with a knot, try and gently pull it out of your floss).
If you're using a hoop, make absolutely sure you remove your fabric from the hoop when putting it away. Leaving your project in a hoop for long periods of time (sometimes just a few hours) can lead to creases that are hard to get out and flattened stitches, which is a real problem. Store in a safe, clean place where you're not going to spill Diet Coke on it - laundering embroidery is a pain, so it's better to just keep it picture perfect while you're working on it.
I'm done! ... Now what?
First, give yourself a pat on the back. I always like to lay out my project somewhere and admire it from a distance. Cross-stitch that looks crappy close up frequently looks really cool from a few feet away. Now it's time to sign your project - a simple backstitch or small cross-stitch font with my initials and the year is how I always do mine.
Many simple fonts are available online if you're having trouble. I just keep a big book of embroidery alphabets around - some projects can handle more elaborate letters, and some projects really just need an ultra-simple, small font. Pick what looks good to you and find a good place for it (bottom corners are the usual place, but some patterns lend themselves to your initials and date being worked into the design itself).
Now it's time to finish off your piece with a little ironing. This stiffens up the fabric and also causes a little bit of good puckering - your stitches should plump up and look really nice. You also don't want to frame something that's wrinkly. Remove the tape from the edges (gentle is the name of the game, as you can cause raveling by pulling off tape too enthusiastically). Get a fluffy bath towel (preferably white, or at the very least, something that's not going to bleed dye) and fold it over a few times, and lay this down on your ironing board or other flat surface. Lay your project out face down on top of the towel - the purpose of the towel is to give your stitches a place to sink down into so they don't get flattened during ironing.
You can also lay a dishcloth or other thin piece of fabric over your project if you're concerned about the iron leaving stains. Now, crank your iron up to the high or medium-high setting with a good bit of steam - but don't iron your embroidery like you'd iron a pair of pants! Heavy pressure is a no-no; just gently skim the iron over your fabric. If you have a crease that doesn't want to come out (from a hoop, for example), your best bet is to steam it out. Spray a little water on the creased area and continue to gently iron. I have yet to meet an embroidery piece that I can't get wrinkle free, but it does take some patience.
After you're done, flip over and admire some more. If you need to store it, flat is best - but I'll also roll up a piece if it needs to travel.
There are many framing options, from do it yourself to professional, but I will let someone else cover those - there are plenty of FAQs and ideas out there on the web. In general, I prefer to just let the pros take care of framing (unless it's a small piece, which most of mine are not), with a few caveats. If you decided to frame under glass, you need to use spacers or mattes - your stitches should not be coming in contact with glass (conservation and no-glare glass is also not usually recommended). The process of self-framing is not hideously complicated, though it does take time - and be mindful that some people have had problems with the simpler options like sticky mounting boards.
Creating your own project from start to finish can be immensely satisfying. I love embroidering - it's one of my favorite ways to relax while watching TV or movies. Cross stitch is an easy, cheap, and accessible way to start crafting - unlike quilting and other kinds of sewing that require a battery of skills, counted cross stitch is simple, intuitive, and easy to get the hang of. We see a lot of really neat game-related crafts here at Kotaku, and this is an easy way to make your own. The final product may not be a perfect replica of the original image, but with some time and patience, you will have an interesting, one of a kind homage to a favorite game, anime, or anything else you can dream up. The more you sew, the better you'll get - and the easier it will be to think up ideas and see them through to a final product that you're pleased with. Just remember that a lot of DIY chart making and sewing is trial and error - you're going to win some and lose some.
